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Month: December 2025

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A Journey to the epic Troll’s Tongue

Trolltunga is undeniably one of Norway‘s most famous landmarks. The iconic rock formation, jutting out 700 metres above Lake Ringedalsvatnet, attracts hikers from all over the world.
It is a long, demanding hike that requires preparation and endurance, especially if tackling the full route from the main parking lot at P2. The reward is a view that has become a symbol of Norwegian nature, offering a dramatic perspective over the fjord landscape below.





Where
Odda, Vestland County, Norway



Difficulty
Demanding / Expert



Average Times
8-12 hours Return



Total Ascent
~1,100m cumulative gain (from P2)


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Distance
27 km Return (from P2)



Max Elevation
1,180 m a.s.l.


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Start Point
P2 Skjeggedal Parking



Water
Fresh water is available from streams on the high plateau.



Services
Paid parking at P2. Shuttle bus available to P3 (Mågelitopp), though this guide describes the full hike starting from P2.



Recommended Season
June – September

STARTING POINTS:

  • P1 (Tyssedal): The “bottom” lot. I suggest to avoid this. It adds 11 km of boring asphalt walking just to get to the real start. 

  • P2 (Skjeggedal): My Choice. The main trailhead. Parking costs NOK 500 (plus a NOK 200 toll). Expensive, yes, but the standard starting point for the proper adventure. 

  • P3 (Mågelitopp): Located at the top of the first climb, saving you 400m of elevation and 7 km of walking. Cost: NOK 600 parking + NOK 200 toll. Catch: Only 30 spots exist, and they sell out months in advance.

    • Extra Option: You can park at P2 and take a shuttle bus up to P3 for about NOK 150 (one way). These prices are updated as of 2025.


  • Info & Highlights

  • Dove:

    Area di Glenorchy, Otago, Isola del sud – NZ

  • Difficoltà:

    Challenging

  • TEMPI MEDI:

    6/8 ore solo andata (4/6 ore solo bosco)

  • Punto di partenza

  • COME ARRIVARE:

    Da Queenstown, guida circa 45 minuti su strada asfaltata fino a Glenorchy. Da Glenorchy, prosegui in direzione Paradise e poco dopo Diamond Lake svolta a destra su Lovers Leap Road, strada sterrata. Prosegui per circa 1,5 km e troverai il parcheggio per Earnslaw Burn Track. Da qui parte il sentiero.

  • ACQUA:

    Disponibile. Reperibile dal fiume Earnslaw Burn e da torrenti e cascate che attraversano il sentiero. Filtro o bollitura fortemente consigliati.

  • SERVIZI:

    No, camping consentito nell’area adiacente al fiume appena usciti dalla linea degli alberi prima dell’alta valle.

  • Periodo consigliato:

    Dicembre – Marzo

  • Dislivello positivo totale:

    1250m 

  • DISTANZA: 13,5 km totali (8,8 km bosco)

    13,5 km totali (8,8 km bosco) solo andata


Let’s start

I began my hike from P2 Skjeggedal

Most people trudge up the road that snakes up to P3. It’s efficient but soulless.
However, if you look closely near the start of the road, there is a steep, rugged trail cutting through the forest. It’s tougher, muddier, and infinitely more natural than walking on pavement. This is the old way.
Whichever poison you pick, you have to conquer this initial 400-meter ascent to reach the Mågelitopp plateau (P3).

Once you reach the top of the road at P3, the terrain changes significantly. You leave the valley behind and enter the high mountain plateau.
The path here consists of rocky steps, open granite slabs, and sections that can be muddy depending on recent weather. The route is well-marked with red “T” symbols painted on rocks and cairns. Although the elevation profile flattens out compared to the initial climb, the trail continues with a series of ups and downs that add to the total physical effort.


The distance is substantial. You will pass some emergency shelters (for survival use only) and traverse varied landscapes, from small mountain lakes to snowy patches. Weather conditions in this area can change rapidly, shifting from sunshine to fog or rain in a short time.

After approximately 13-14 KMs of hiking, you reach the destination.
The plateau ends abruptly, revealing the sheer drop down to Lake Ringedalsvatnet. Extending from the cliff face is Trolltunga itself.


Mi sono pentito di non avere la tenda con me quel giorno, infatti avevo attrezzatura minimale, ed ero partito a metà pomeriggio rientrando col buio e frontalino a tarda serata.

“Per chi mi conosce sono solito fare uscite piuttosto wild con tempistiche e organizzazione quantomeno dubbia e in condizioni spesso folli… Sconsiglio vivamente di fare altrettanto perché spesso non è il modo migliore per apprezzare quanto fai ma è semplicemente… Il Mio.”

The view from the edge is impressive, crashing straight down to the water with a clear sightline across the surrounding peaks. But given the site’s fame: I had heard the horror stories—supermarket-style queues, hours of waiting just to step onto that rock for the photo. I went in mid-September, dreading the hordes. 

I started late, deliberately pushing against the flow and the decision paid off. Despite a spectacular day, being just outside peak season and avoiding the rush hour meant that while there were people, I also found moments of pure solitude. I watched the landscape burn red as late afternoon bled into an unforgettable sunset. Honestly, at twilight it’s terrifyingly beautiful. Perhaps the best time to be there.

My return journey happened in the dark. Hiking back with a headlamp is feasible thanks to the abundance of reflective trail markers that light up in the beam, but it requires caution. Even in summer, slippery patches of ice can hide in the shadows.

For those who want to extend the experience, there are specific areas marked for camping (and others where it’s explicitly banned).  Just do it right.

Gli ultimi passi

Trolltunga is a significant physical undertaking.
From a visual standpoint, the rock formation is spectacular and unique. The scale of the cliffs and the drop to the lake create a powerful scene.
However, due to its global fame, it is rarely a solitary experience. The trail can be busy, and the presence of crowds at the summit changes the atmosphere compared to lesser-known hikes.
Completing the hike from P2 is a test of endurance that adds a sense of accomplishment to the visit. It is a full-day commitment that rewards hikers with one of Norway’s most recognizable views.

Non ho mai trovato alcuna foto di questo luogo, tanto meno le mie, in grado di mostrare realmente la sensazione di vastità, purezza ed imponenza di questa vallata, dove il ghiacciaio si illumina al sole e una valanga di cascate grandi e piccole danno vita al fiume serpeggiante che ti accompagna sino alle falde del monte.

È possibile raggiungere questa perla nascosta percorrendo il sentiero che ho descritto, o tramite alcune compagnie che offrono esperienze da “tacchi e cravatta” piuttosto che “scarponi e sudore” atterrando con elicotteri nella vallata. Fortunatamente il giorno in cui ho deciso di percorrerla nessun elicottero ha cambiato l’atmosfera di quel luogo. Anzi credo non fossimo più di 7 persone nell’arco di tutta la vallata dalle 5 PM in avanti.
L’incontro più significativo che ho fatto è stato un lungo scambio di sguardi con un cerbiatto tutt’altro che impaurito dalla mia presenza.
Magnifico.

L’immagine meglio conservata nei miei ricordi di questa esperienza sono gli ultimi km nell’alta vallata quando ad ogni passo la mia mascella cadeva facendomi rimanere a bocca spalancata come un pesce sbalordito dallo stupore mi chiedevo “ma dove c***o mi trovo?


Sicurezza e consigli

Ho percorso questo sentiero in una calda e limpida giornata di fine febbraio e consiglio di percorrerla in condizioni di cielo sereno, verificando eventuali aggiornamenti sullo stato del percorso sul sito ufficiale DOC. Il rischio valanghe, specialmente fuori stagione, è significativo. È importante portare con sé cibo, strati caldi, e avvisare qualcuno dei propri spostamenti e prepararsi a trovarsi da soli lontano da ogni tipo di comfort.

Earnslaw Burn è una valle meravigliosa e incorrotta che deve essere preservata e mantenuta tale. È necessario organizzarsi per poter portare con sé gli eventuali rifiuti e come sempre NON LASCIARE TRACCE.

Se hai domande o vuoi scambiare due parole, raccontare esperienze e ricordi ti sono balzati alla mente leggendo questa storia commenta o scrivimi su Instagram
E live outdoor!

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POUĀKAI TARNS

POUĀKAI TARNS

                 

    

   

       

         

      

   

Where: Mount Taranaki – NZ (North Isand)

Difficulty: Moderate

Average time: 2,5 hours one way

Distance: 5km one way

Chasing Silence: A Brief Look at One of NZ’s Finest Reflections

If you have ever seen a photo of Mount Taranaki perfectly reflected in an alpine mirror, it was taken here. Pouākai Tarns is not a secret spot, but seeing it in the right conditions is an art form.
While most hikers go up during the day (often finding wind rippling the water or clouds swallowing the peak), the real secret is to be there at sunrise. That is the moment—before the sun heats the air and the breeze picks up—when the water turns to glass and the volcanic cone lights up in red.

Highlights

I was driving a car, heading Wellington. Seeing an unexpected window of perfect weather, I decided to pull over for a stop on the slopes of Mount Taranaki
I  tried to get a few hours of sleep, leaning my head against the window, unsuccessfully trying to find a way to stretch my legs.

When the alarm went off, I was stiff, hungry, and sleep-deprived. But the timing was perfect…

The track begins at Mangorei car park, around 20 minutes driving from New Plymouth.

You start immediately with an endless staircase immersed in the ‘goblin forest‘—thousands of wooden steps built to protect the fragile soil. In the dark, your torch beam illuminates only the next few steps, creating a hypnotic visual tunnel.

After the initial climb, you suddenly break out of the treeline near Pouākai Hut, where the morning wind usually greets you.

You continue for another 15-20 minutes towards the Tarns. And this is where the magic truly begins.
The trail turns into a wooden boardwalk that snakes its way through the golden tussock. Walking on it, suspended above the vegetation, I had a sudden flashback: it looked exactly like the “Snake Way” from Dragon Ball, the infinite road Goku runs to reach King Kai. Except here, instead of a tiny planet at the end, there was a mirror of water.

Getting there 30 minutes before sunrise is the best timing.
In this magical maoment, called “Blue Hour,” the wind often drops.
Then it happens: the first ray of sun hits the tip of Taranaki, dyeing it pink and purple, while everything else is still deep blue. In that moment, the hunger, thirst, and sleep disappeared. There was only perfection.

“Perhaps sometimes we must push through darkness straight ahed, seek silent solitude, to look in the mirror of who we really are.”

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EXTRA TIPS

THE CIRCUIT

You can turn this into a 2-3 day adventure by hiking the full Pouākai Circuit (25 km). Starting from North Egmont Visitor Centre, you’ll loop through the unique Ahukawakawa Swamp and stay at Holly Hut, making it a complete backcountry experience.

HUTS & LODGES AROUND THE VOLCANO

There are several huts and lodges scattered on the slopes of Taranaki. They all offer spectacular views, especially at dawn and dusk. Here are some of my favourites:

  • Pouākai Hut (North): The one for the incredible tarns reflection. (Serviced, Bookings Required).

  • Holly Hut (West): Nestled near the swamp, great for the full circuit loop. (Serviced, Bookings Required).

  • SYME HUT (South): Sunset King)
    The highest hut in the park and the ultimate sunset spot. Watching Taranaki’s triangular shadow stretch over the clouds from here is a spiritual experience

  • Maketawa Hut (East): Hidden gem.  It’s famous for its deck with an incredible view over the Taranaki ring plain. Access is relatively easy (1.5h walk) and the sunrise from the porch is legendary. 
  • Waingongoro Hut (South-East): A great family-friendly hut with high swing bridges and goblin forest.

  • Tahurangi Lodge (North): Private (TAC) but bookable, sits high at 1,500m. Great base for climbers.

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